A.T.M. Vegan Deli: What’s Vegetarian Editorial Review

A.T.M. Vegan Deli is a 100 percent plant-based sandwich counter at 525 DeKalb Avenue in Brooklyn. If you eat vegetarian, you can order anything on the menu. You’ll find breakfast sandwiches, deli salads, and loaded fries, with no meat, dairy, or eggs anywhere in the kitchen.

Sandwiches, salads, shares, and sides make up the short menu. Fifteen sandwiches fill the first section. That’s the reason to go.

What to order

Start with breakfast. The names read like a deli counter’s shorthand, and each one changes a single layer. On the B.E.C., you get maple wood smoked mushrooms, tofu over easy, cheddar, and yolk sauce on a roll. Swap the mushrooms for house-made seitan and you’ve ordered the S.E.C. Pick smoked yuba for the H.E.C., or smoked seitan pastrami for the P.E.C. Want it plain? Ask for the E.N.C., which skips the protein layer.

Lunch runs on the same smoked proteins. For the R.B.N., the cooks pile smoked seitan pastrami, cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing on griddled rye. Order the C.B.N. and you get slow roasted tofu and smoked yuba with cheese, pickles, mojo, and mustard on a pressed hero. Missing a bodega chopped cheese? Try the C.H.P., made with chopped Beyond, cheddar, grilled onions, tomato, pickled peppers, greens, and special sauce on a hero. You can get the B.L.T. on sourdough or whole wheat, with smoked mushrooms in place of bacon.

Deli salads come by the side. The menu calls the tofu salad eggy, with fresh herbs. T.N.A. salad is the tuna stand-in: tofu, chickpeas, hearts of palm, celery, onion, and herbs. You can also add potato salad with tofu, macaroni salad, bean salad with kidneys and chickpeas, or cauliflower salad with capers and mustard dressing.

Want greens? You can pick a simple mixed salad, a Caesar with pepita parm, or a Cobb loaded with peppered seitan, tofu salad, avocado, and bleu cheese. Hungrier diners go for the loaded chopped cheese fries or the loaded Reuben fries, both piled on a large order. The cooks cut the fries by hand every day, and the pickles come in dill, spicy, and extra spicy.

The kitchen

Everything here is vegan, so you don’t have to worry about meat, dairy, or eggs touching your food. Gluten is the catch. Many sandwiches carry a GFO tag for a gluten free option, but the deli says its cooks make those on the same equipment as everything else and can’t guarantee them. Tell the counter about any allergy when you order.

Hours and how to order

The deli’s location page lists Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Some listings show later closing times, so call 646-670-3894 before you cross town. You can use that number for takeout, too. For delivery, the website links to Uber Eats, Grubhub, and DoorDash, and the deli notes that DoorDash carries a limited menu.

Is it a good fit?

Plan on breakfast or lunch, since the posted hours end by mid-afternoon. Bring a mixed group. Vegetarians and vegans can both order without asking a single question, and a meat eater who misses a chopped cheese has the C.H.P.

Our pick for a first visit: the B.E.C. on a roll, a side of T.N.A. salad, and a spicy pickle.