Dirt Candy: What’s Vegetarian Editorial Review

Dirt Candy cooks vegetables, and only vegetables, in a five-course tasting menu on the Lower East Side. A vegetarian eats everything at the table, and the kitchen can make every dish vegan. Chef Amanda Cohen runs the restaurant at 86 Allen Street, between Grand and Broome Streets.

The menu costs $118 per person, tip included. Tax is extra. Wine pairing adds $55, and a non-alcoholic pairing adds $45. Between courses, the kitchen sends out small extra bites that aren’t on the printed list.

The Fall 2026 menu debuted on October 15. Candy cane beets in yuzu kosho and shiso open the meal. Course two is a portobello mushroom mille-feuille, puff pastry layered with mushroom mousse and topped with apples, grapes, and date caramel. Third comes pickled cabbage tossed with Thai chili, yuba, and idiazabal, a sheep’s milk cheese. Fourth is a crispy celeriac pave with tahini, preserved lemon, and a celery salad. Dessert is an eggplant crème brûlée on a sourdough brownie with sourdough ice cream. Expect different dishes in spring.

Older menus show the range. The brussels sprout tacos arrived on a sizzling stone with iceberg lettuce wrappers, smoked avocado, pickled red onion, cotija cheese, and salsa verde, so you built each bite yourself. The smoked cabbage hot pot served two or more guests from a kettle of warm broth, with ramen-style noodles made of cabbage and kale, ginger kimchi, and house chili oil on the side. Other past dishes include onion tortellini, a spinach mille-feuille, and ricotta dumplings in smoked cabbage broth.

We tier it 100 percent vegetarian rather than vegan, because the kitchen cooks with dairy and eggs. The crème brûlée, the ricotta, and the cheese on the cabbage course are examples. The FAQ says the kitchen can make every dish vegan, so a vegan guest can eat the full menu. Say so when you book. Gluten-free guests are out of luck at dinner, because the kitchen says it can’t accommodate them then. For any other allergy, call or add a note to your reservation in advance. Show up unannounced, and the kitchen can’t promise a swap.

Dirt Candy doesn’t take tips. The restaurant says it pays its staff a living wage that starts at $29 an hour, with paid time off and health insurance. A credit card holds your reservation, and a cancellation with less than 24 hours’ notice costs $50 per person. Book through Resy or call 212-228-7732. Each table gets a set window, so a few tables sit empty on a busy night.

One menu a night is the rule. The restaurant says 2020 taught it how much food two menus wasted. You can order beer, wine, and spirits, and the cocktail and wine lists live on the website. Dinner runs Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. The restaurant says it’s one of only two vegetarian restaurants in New York City with a Michelin star. I didn’t check that claim against the Michelin Guide.

Go for a birthday, an anniversary, or the night you want to show a skeptical meat-eater that vegetables can carry a dinner. Skip it for a quick weeknight bite. Dietary need? Call ahead.