Shizen: What’s Vegetarian Editorial Review

Shizen is a fully vegan sushi bar and izakaya at 370 14th Street in San Francisco, and every roll, ramen, and small plate on its menu is plant-based. The chefs build their dishes from tapioca, mountain yam, konjac, bean curd, and seasonal produce. Skip the questions about fish stock, bonito flakes, or egg. Shizen’s kitchen is fully vegan.

What’s vegan and vegetarian at Shizen

Every dish. The owners combine classic shojin and sushi techniques with local, seasonal ingredients, and they aim for food that stands up “without the need to imitate animal proteins.” Avoiding gluten? Look for the mark. Shizen puts that mark on both miso soups, the edamame, both salads, three small plates, most of the nigiri, and four specialty rolls.

What to order at Shizen

Shizen calls the specialty rolls “what we are known for,” and each costs $20 or $21. On the Prime Suspect ($21), you get tempura asparagus, shredded gobo, marinated eggplant, sweet potato crisps, and torched gochujang aioli. For heat, order the Secret Weapon ($21), with marinated eryngii mushroom, spicy shredded tofu, pickled jalapeño, pickled pineapple, and habanero sauce. Order the Colonel’s Pipe ($20) for a gluten-free roll with smoked beets, cashews, creamy tofu, asparagus, and avocado.

Nigiri cost $10 for two. Try the okra with garlic oil and truffle salt, or the eggplant with torched saikyo miso. Both ramen bowls cost $19, shio or spicy garlic miso, and the cooks top each one with bean curd chashu, bamboo shoots, tempura mushroom, grilled mushrooms, nori, and green onion. Start with the yuba salad ($17) or the mushroom plate of eryngii, shiitake, and enoki ($14).

How to book Shizen

You need a reservation for the dining room. Shizen books tables up to one week ahead for parties of four or fewer, and walk-ins can try the sushi bar, where Shizen seats parties of up to three. Shizen holds an unclaimed table for 15 minutes and asks each party to keep to a 90-minute seating. If you cancel with less than 24 hours’ notice, Shizen may charge $20 per person.

Shizen serves dinner from 5pm to 9pm Monday through Thursday, 4pm to 9:30pm on Friday and Saturday, and 4:30pm to 9pm on Sunday. Shizen will close December 24 through 26. Call (415) 678-5767 with questions.

Before you go to Shizen

Plan on a sit-down meal. Shizen can’t take to-go orders right now. Most nigiri are a single vegetable over rice, so put your money into the specialty rolls. Those add up fast. Two $20 rolls, a ramen, and the mushroom plate come to $73 before tax and tip.

Our verdict on Shizen

Go. Shizen’s specialty rolls are the reason to book a vegan dinner here. Book your table a week out, and order the Prime Suspect.